Many thanks to Elena at the Blue Men of Morocco, our small family had a dream come true trip to North Africa in June of 2005. Elena was very patient in waiting for us when we had a plane delay upon our arrival in Malaga, and kindly took us to Algeciras for our ferry the next morning.

Upon arrival in Tangiers, we met with our truly wonderful guide who drove us in air-conditioned comfort for 9 days throughout Morocco. We started at a beautiful riad in Fes and toured with a top notch guide through the streets of the old medina. We continued on to the Atlas Mountains, where we experienced the Barbary apes, through to Merzouga and to Haven La Chance. We had a stunning night under the stars, a visit to a Gnaoui tribe with some great spirited music and dancing the next morning, after which we had a delicious lunch with a lovely Berber family. Our camping trek into the Sahara Desert on camels with a seasoned Berber guide was one of life’s thrills.

We spent a few days in the spectacular Dades and Todra Gorges, the Valley of a Thousand Casbahs, Ourzarzate, through the High Atlas Mountains and then to Marrakech. Our riad in Marrakech was simply divine and air-conditioned. Our guide in Marrakech gave us an exciting tour of the Medina and Jma el F’na. The horse Fantasia evening on our last night there was magical.

We departed for Casablanca where we had a nice lunch at an ocean café before continuing on to Rabat. We celebrated our anniversary at a charming riad with glorious food that evening. In the morning we explored the Medina and toured the old walled city on the bluff, then drove to a small beach town, Asilah where we enjoyed the hotel’s pool. At long last, we headed to Tangiers the next morning, stopping to encounter the Hercules caves before our reluctant return to Spain.

Our family loves to travel, though this was our first trip to Europe and Africa. When I envisioned our family’s trip to Morocco, I had an idea in my head about traveling around the country. When I saw Elena’s website, I knew right away she understood the way Americans, who like some adventure, want to travel. She made the dream a reality for us, and is well-respected by all of her contacts in Morocco. Our driver was so wonderful he felt like family. We can’t wait to experience Morocco again with The Blue Men of Morocco!

Hi Elena,
Wow we are home and what can we say.... The trip you put together for Rossana and me was just spectacular. Thanks to you, Zaid and Ahmed we really had a super time and we feel that we did not miss anything.

We are still talking about our trip and we will for some time to come. Zaid was a pleasure to have as a guide and we really enjoyed his company along our travels and will miss him allot. We want to thank you for a great life experience and let you know that if you need any testimony from us we will be happy to recommend Blue Men of Morocco.

We feel that the trip you put together for us and the price we paid was great value for our money. The desert trip has always been a dream of mine and it was more then what I expected and with the help of Abraham at the Auberge and Omar the camel man, it was such a great time that now that we are home and our kids have seen the video, they to now want to have a trip in the desert by camel.
The Moroccon people are freindly and interesting and we now have the experience of knowing a new culture and thier way of life and we owe it all to Blue Men of Morocco. Thank you so much for this trip, it was a pleasure to get to know you and your team and we were very happy with all aspects of the tour.

Joella and I began exploring travel possibilities in Morocco in the spring of 2004. Our trip was to be in October, 2004. We discovered Elena Hall and the Blue Men in April, 2004. We immediately felt comfortable dealing with Elena and she had things in place for us by June, 2004. We anxiously awaited the coming of October!

We were met at the airport in Casablanca at 11:30 p.m. by Elena and Hmad as planned. We breathed a sigh of relief when we met them and knew things would go smoothly. From Casablanca we traveled to Rabat for our first night in a lovely riad. We were tired after 23 hours of travel from western USA.
The next day we stopped at the Roman ruins on the way to Fes. Our first exposure to the Roman civilization in Africa….very impressive. We had lunch at the café there and fed our first cats in Morocco! 

Then on to Fes and another impressive riad. Elena dealt with some question about our room there very aggressively and we were happy with the digs. We spent the next day in Fes with Ahmed, a professional guide, who was very informative and went out of his way to show us things of interest to us, rather than a routine “guided tour”. We saw a private home in the process of traditional renovation by age old techniques of building and decoration. We also visited several Muslim sites and learned a great deal about the Muslim faith and history. The medina was, for me, the most fascinating…..all the people, smells, sights! Also of interest were the tanneries and the gray clay ceramic “factory”. Our first evening meal in Fes was a memorable experience. The food itself was very good….a vast array of salad choices individually offered followed by a succulent lamb tangine with the final course being fruit. The dinner was followed by a show. Of the two “fantasies” we saw in Morocco this was the best. There was indigineous music, a magician, ethnic dancers and the star of the show was a beautiful belly dancer who also demonstrated the art of “fire eating”.

While in Fes we satisfied a life long dream and spent time in a rug co operative. American car salesmen are known for their high pressure salesmanship, but they can’t hold a candle to the carpet salesmen in Fes! From mint tea to informative lectures on the types of rugs…..we got the whole treatment. We also purchased some beautiful carpets.

From Fes we traveled up and over the Atlas range, stopping to feed the Barbary apes. Then down into Midelt and the market there. The markets were almost as fascinating as the medinas….chaos in an organized fashion.  We also visited a Catholic Kasbah where Moroccan women learned to embroider and weave. We purchased a lovely woven pillow cover there and met some wonderful women. The night was spent in a hotel just outside Midelt. Adequate but not on a par with the riads.

The next day we traveled further south and met our “ships of the desert” in the afternoon below Erfoud. We met Hassan, our camel guide, there and boarded the camels for the trip into the desert. After a few hours of travel we came to our lodging for the night….the home of a desert Berber family. We learned a great deal about the Berber culture during this evening, as well as having a great meal of couscous, lamb and vegetables followed by melon and grapes. It seemed strange to have cookies and tea at the beginning of the meal. It didn’t take too much to learn to sleep on the ground with a blanket over us as we were, once again, tired.

The next two days were spent in Erg Chebbi on the camels. We would ride for a few hours in the morning then hide from the sun under bushes during the heat of the day. We would then ride a few hours more until we came to the camping spot for the night. Hassan provided delicious tangines for the evening meals.  The dunes were very beautiful in their infinite shapes and changing colors. We felt as though we were in the middle of “nowhere” as we followed Hassan as he walked ahead of us. The isolation was disrupted a few times when Hassan’s cell phone would play it’s tune and he would confer with the caller. Ironic! One of the interesting parts of the rest of our trip was the beginning of the period of Ramadan. It began the second day on the camels. Poor Hassan was tired and hungry by the time sundown came that night.

We ended the camel portion of the journey in Merzouga at La Chance and had some time to relax and wash clothes. Elena and Ahmed were there to greet us and provide our every need. We met some interesting people in Merzouga, were welcomed into their homes for visits and a meal. We also visited another rug co operative, learning about Berber carpets and finding another treasure to bring home.

The next day we traveled with Hmad to Quarzazate, stopping at Gorge Dades en route for lunch. Elena remained in Merzouga to deal with the progress of the improvements at La Chance. It is a very scenic route with stretches of barren land interspersed with lush valleys, villages and spectacular land forms. The night was spent in an outstanding riad on the outskirts of Quarzazate. Here we were able to experience the Moroccan form of the sauna…the hamman. Very relaxing and refreshing. Our meal here in the evening was wonderful. Our suite was very lush and comfortable. We were sorry to only be able to spend one night here.

From Quarzazate we traveled up through the High Atlas and into Marrakesh. What a scenic trip! What was probably the highlight of the trip for me occurred this day when we stopped for lunch. Hmad remained in the car, honoring Ramadan,  while we had lunch at a small café in a very small village on the road. We decided to take a walk after lunch and strolled up the highway and then down a side street. We walked by a home where some women were sitting behind a fence visiting. I stopped and tried to talk to them. With no Arabic and very little French communication was a challenge during the whole trip. Well, one of these women was a young girl and she immediately invited us through the gate into the yard. We stepped down and everyone was smiling and saying, “Bonjour”. Then her mother opened the door to the house and invited us to come in. We stepped through the door into a lovely courtyard festooned with plants, flowers, cheerful ceramic tile. She led us through the courtyard into the living room and we all sat down. The girl’s father was there and we were introduced to him. More smiles and “Bonjour”s. Soon there was tea with cookies on the table. We spent about half an hour with this family and met more of the family. Between a little French, a little English, and lots of sign language we learned about one another. I truly felt a part of the world community in this situation.

In Marrakesh we wound our way to the edge of the medina. We couldn’t find the riad and had to be rescued by the riad staff. They led us into the medina and we walked for a little while down this narrow dark pathway. We came to a door and stepped through into the garden of eden. Courtyards, pools, fountains, plants, flowers, smiling faces. Our room here was very comfortable with all amenities. The breakfasts were served in the sun on the roof overlooking the city. The one evening meal we had here was the best we had during the entire trip. Food that was both ethnic and European in it’s sophistication served impeccably in a setting of tranquil opulence. The music of Annouar Breham accompanied the meal.

The highlight of Marrakesh, of course, was the Square at night. We spent several hours watching, smelling, listening to all the cacophony of activity here. Music, magic potions, snakes, stories, sermons, food, drink… everyone working hard to earn their keep for the day. It was significant that there were more Moroccans in attendance than tourists. We’re enjoying the scent of frankincense and myrhh as it burns tonight in our home. We also spent time during the day shopping in the medina. Ahmed took us to a friend’s shop that sold metal objects of art. Joella got a lovely antique pair of earrings and a necklace and I found an elaborate salt hammer.

The first night in Marrakesh we went to Chez Ali. This was probably the low point of the trip. Chez Ali is a disney like place that offers a “museum” of Ali Baba related dioramas, serves an evening meal accompanied by “ethnic” musicians and dancers circulating around the dining rooms as well as amplified Moroccan music over the loud speakers. The meal did not meet the standard we had become accustomed to on the trip so far. After the meal we were entertained by horsemen and demonstrations in a large arena. We never could get a grasp on the story line of the presentation.
From Marrakesh we traveled over to Essouira and spent a night in a hotel in the medina. We spent time at the wharf where the fishing boats discharge their cargos and where the boat building is done. More time in the medina amidst the bustle of people and souks. The next day we traveled further up the coast and spent the afternoon and evening in El Oulidea. We walked on the beach that afternoon and the next morning investigated the bird life in the lagoon by boat. That evening I discovered “crevettes provencal”…mmmmm!

The following day we traveled on to Casablanca, stopping in Safi for views of the Casbah, forts and the red clay ceramic industry. In Casablanca we had time only to visit the mosque. It is truly awe inspiring in it’s size and beauty. To end the journey we had “soup” with Hmad in a small restaurant that served the traditional evening Ramadan meal to a strictly Morrocan clientele…..soup, bread with jam, olives, a sweet, orange juice and milk.

This trip was one of the best we have taken. Being Americans in a Islamic culture was not a problem. We were welcomed everywhere we went. We were thankful we had the good fortune to have Hmad with his languages with us wherever we went. He was clearly interested in seeing that our needs were met and was an invaluable source of insight and information. We left Morocco feeling that we had been not only well served, but that we had made two new friendships that we will value in the days to come.

And yes, we rented the car from Hertz and we need to thank you ALSO for this. You got us a super deal. Raúl told me even the Hertz employee was surprised of how low the price was, but she had to mantain it.

So Elena, I say good bye for now, do not hesitate about ever asking me to write a recommendation letter to any potential client who could be doubtful (like I was), Un abrazo para tí y para Hmad.

One night in Essaouira with an afternoon in the markets was fine for us. Not enough if you wanted to shop a lot but there’s only so much hanging around in markets that some men can tolerate!

Barra was just great – we really enjoyed traveling with him, his guidance and the places he took us to. And our Christmas in the desert was the best traditional meal we had the whole time we were there. This is what I wrote to our friends and family….

The English Camel (ie: Land Rover) picked us up the next morning with Barra as our guide and driver. We drove from Essaouira to Ouarzazate across the Atlas Mountain range which is pretty windy (not as in windy blow, as in windy like a corkscrew!), much like the roads that go up the mountains in the South Island of NZ. I had to sit in the front to prevent an imminent chunder attack. There was snow on the caps of the mountains. We stopped at a cool roadside café for lunch with the locals.

On the way we stopped at Ait Benhaddou, a ancient Kasbah which we took the shortcut off – road to get to. Ahmed took us around, he was pretty ancient too (!), but very amusing and informative. Lots of movies made here apparently.

Stayed the night in Ouarzazate a town on the edges of the Sahara (not much here, pretty boring but needed to break the travelling), and the next day drove to the dunes of Erg Chebbi. On the way Barra stopped at his sister’s house and they gave us a gorgeous lunch in her home which was a nice bonus! Erg Chebbi are the dunes Lawrence gallops over in Lawrence of Arabia. It was filmed there. We took a camel ride at sunset over the dunes which took a couple of hours. They are just magnificent! – indescribable colours and beauty. Not all the Sahara looks like that though - most of it was just arid land. Our guide Barra was from the village of Merzouga on the edge of Erg Chebbi, where we stayed in a Berber Tent overnight. His brothers run the accommodation site. It was Christmas Day so they organized a small Christmas tree and we ate our Christmas dinner of Moroccan food outside under the stars. It was a great spread! - the best we had the whole time we were there. It was bloody cold at night though - needed 4 blankets!

The next day we toured the village with Hassan and went to the village co-op carpet shop. After two hours of being told about the carpets histories, drinking tea and bargaining to a price that wasn't hideous, we ended up buying 2 carpets instead of 1 for a price that included as many medicines as we could spare and Jas's cargo pants!!! Both of us felt bloody exhausted by the time it was all over - not used to all this bargaining malarkey. It was good fun, looking back and it was nice to buy from the people who made them, (and they really need the money) and not some dodgy Marrakech merchant.

After a quick visit to Barra’s family house and meeting his mother and wife among others, (we were a bit pressed for time as carpet buying had taken ages), we drove back to Ouarzazate for the night, then the next day, back over that awful mountain road to Marrakech. You see all these men riding or ploughing the fields with their donkeys in djellabas – (robes with pointed hoods), people with camel trains, or herds of animals and women carrying huge loads of sticks on their backs – It’s such a totally different way of life - just like out of a story book really.

I would definitely recommend your clients to book the hotels with you. Out of the hotels we booked ourselves……Royal Golf in El Jadida was great – but we were upgraded and had a fantastic suite, plus there were hardly any guests. Villa Maroc was quite overrated as far as we were concerned. Our room was tiny and we heard the bloody seagulls all night. It was still a gorgeous place though – great views and interior. Dar Tinzouline in Marrakech was beautiful and Anne the hostess was just marvellous, but we were 6 kms out of town which is huge when the taxis (and we had to get grand taxis) are unreliable. Certainly in the Essaouira and Marrakech options we probably would have been better to go with your regulars.

De reis naar Merzuga with Blue Men of Morocco Co.

We gingen met z’n zessen, vol verwachting over wat komen zou!

De overtocht Algeciras-Tanger was een mooi begin, begeleid door dolfijnen.
Hotels: de Riads waren prachtig, gerestaureerde paleisjes vol bezienswaardigheden.

Het verblijf in “La Chance” in Merzuga was pure luxe, volledige verzorging, geweldig zo kamperen. De “blauwe mannen” waren bijzonder attent en voorkomend.

Het eten was prima, erg smakelijk en veel. Na twee dagen hebben we de lunch maar overgeslagen.
De excursies: zeer afwisselend, paleizen, moskeeën, kashba’s, souk’s en een berberdorp, alles zeer de moeite waard.

We were fortunate the Kasbah was open for visitors. Beautiful mosaic's of tile and wood awaited us as we walked deeper into the Kasbah.
A must stop for anyone traveling to Ouarzazate. Take more pictures than you think you should; its worth it when you are at home later.

After dinner & a short walk at our hotel, La Valle, my husband and I began speaking with a very nice young man working at the hotel. We had one of the most memorable evenings speaking to the young Berber man (in English, Spanish and a little French) and learned much about the Berber culture, working conditions and family life. He even took the time and introduced us to a few of his friends. After several glasses of mint tea it was time for bed at La Valle Hotel.

Day 1 Marrakech to Ouarzazate
No one could as for a better Day 1 than ours.
We were introduced to a simply wonderful country, people and Boom Boom's (candy).

We knew we were in good hands with Elena and Hmad and going to have a better two week vacation than we dreamed of.

Our family loves to travel, though this was our first trip to Europe and Africa. When I envisioned our family’s trip to Morocco, I had an idea in my head about traveling around the country. When I saw Elena’s website, I knew right away she understood the way Americans, who like some adventure, want to travel. She made the dream a reality for us, and is well-respected by all of her contacts in Morocco. Our driver was so wonderful he felt like family. We can’t wait to experience Morocco again with The Blue Men of Morocco!